FACTS THAT YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT PERFUME

 

1. What does the word Perfume actually mean?

The word perfume actually comes from the Latin world ‘per fumum’ which literally translates as ‘through smoke’ and the Romans and Arabs refined the art of making and wearing perfume 2500 years ago. Emperor Nero would hold lavish feasts with rose and jasmine oil pouring through the fountains and being wafted into the air. The Arabian practice of Bakhoor which burns incense and precious wood in order to perfume clothing and the environment is still prominent today.

2. What was the first perfume?

We do not know for fact what the first perfume was but we do know that the world’s first recorded chemist, who was also a perfume maker, is a woman named Tapputi. She lived in Babylonian Mesopotamian around 1200 BCE. It is said that she developed and recorded methods for scent extraction techniques, laying the foundation for today’s perfume making. The first actual ‘factory’ dedicated to the production of perfumed oils dates back 4000 years on the island of Cyprus. The Egyptians were the first to make perfume truly a part of their culture 3000 years ago, inventing stone and glass vessels to hold their precious scented oils and balms.

3. Can perfume be an aphrodisiac?

Perfume can undoubtedly make the wearer feel sexy. There are indeed perfumes with ingredients that are known to have aphrodisiac qualities and the smell can prompt an instant attraction and intuitive sensual responses. Ingredients like Jasmine, Ylang ylang, Vanilla and Ginger are said have aphrodisiac properties. Even Cleopatra knew about the strong quality of Jasmine and used the power of this perfume to seduce Mark Antony.

 

4. Perfume changes throughout the day – why?

Ever wondered why the smell of perfume changes throughout the day? This is due to the Top, Heart and Base notes in a perfume. When creating a fragrance, the chemistry of the skin and the raw materials used causes a perfume to evolve over time. A perfume is a very complex composition of top notes, heart notes and base notes. The top notes are the most delicate and do typically not last very long. Heart notes tend to be herbal, floral and spice notes which last longer than the top notes but you will be able to smell the base notes the longest. Base notes are usually composed from wood, amber and musk.

5. Does Perfume have an expiry date?

The composition of a perfume might change over time. This is why it is recommended to use your perfume within 3 – 5 years. Once the bottle is opened and came into contact with air (by opening the bottle or spraying the atomiser) it should be used within the first three years. The older the fragrance gets the more different it can smell, Eau de Toilette for example might only smell of alcohol after a few years. The higher the perfume concentration, the higher the chance that it will last longer – in the bottle and as well as on your skin. Commonly, Perfumes with heavier (oriental) base notes last the longest.

 

6. How to store perfume?

There are certain factors you should remember when storing perfume. Humidity, sunlight and variations of temperature will impact your perfume over time. Therefore, to make your perfume last longer, make sure to store it upright in a dark place that is not impacted by humidity or extreme changes of temperatures – so the bathroom or car is really not ideal.

7. What is the difference between Eau de Parfum and Parfum?

There are different categories in perfumery for perfume types with certain concentration. Concentration refers to the amount of pure perfume oil within a fragrance. Eau de Toilette, for example, has a perfume concentration of about 10%, whilst Eau de Parfum 15%. Perfumes that are classified as actual Parfum boast a concentration of over 20%. The higher the concentration, the higher the longevity on the skin which means that a Parfum lasts significantly longer on your skin than an Eau de Parfum. One can expect a Parfum to last 8-12 hours whilst an Eau de Parfum might only last for about six hours.

 

8. Is perfume a mood booster?

Perfume is definitely a feel-good stimulant that can relax you, improve the mood, make you feel sexy and act as a confidence booster. Perfume is also known to evoke certain associations. Having a scent memory can be quite special as it helps to remember things you actually want to remember. It is also said that Citrus perfumes make you energised and refreshed.

9. Why does perfume smell different on skin?

Every person has a different skin PH and also lead a different lifestyle (sports, diet, smoking, drinking, etc). This can have implications on how your perfume smells on your skin in comparison to someone else or on a scented card. If you notice that your perfume smells different than it used to, it does not automatically mean that the perfume has gone off or that the formula of the perfume has changed – it can also mean that you might have changed your lifestyle.

10. What is the difference between a splash bottle and atomiser?

Most perfumes are atomisers, which is essentially a spray pump. A splash bottle does not have a spray pump and does not necessarily have an applicator on the bottle top. Splash bottles are usually used for Aftershaves. Pure perfume oils might also be presented in crystal bottles that do not have a spray pump but feature an applicator which allows to dab and apply the perfume on the skin.

11. How to apply perfume?

Perfume is activated by body heat this is why you should apply perfume on your skin at the main pulse points, the inside of your wrist, on the neck, behind the ear, elbows and behind your knees. Do not rub your wrists together as this will alter the molecules of the perfume and will result in the fragrance smelling different. You can also put perfume into your hair as it will last longer and will diffuse the scent as it is constantly in motion. Please refrain from spraying perfume directly on your hair as the contained alcohol can dry it out. Spray the perfume on your brush before brushing your hair – voila.

12. Are perfumes vegan?

A lot of perfumes do contain ingredients from an animal. It is advisable to double check before purchasing if you want to make sure that it is a 100% vegan perfume. There is no official signage on packaging just yet. Clive Christian Perfumes are not tested on animals, and the majority of our perfumes are certified suitable for vegans. Some of our perfumes that are unsuitable for vegans do contain natural beeswax and honey absolute, which is sustainably sourced from the south of France as a bi-product of the honey industry.

13. What are unisex perfumes?

Generally speaking all perfumes are unisex. There is no written rule that says a sweet, floral scent is for women and deep woody fragrance for men. It is up to the wearer to decide how they would want to smell like and add to their personal perfume wardrobe. There are indeed a lot of women wearing fragrances that are classified as masculine and there is nothing wrong with that.

HOW TO SELECT THE RIGHT PERFUME FOR YOU

How to choose a perfume that is right for you when there are thousands of different fragrances to choose from? The right perfume is as individual as you are. What works well for other might not work well for you. The right perfume, your signature fragrance is a synergy of chemistry and emotion. 

A signature fragrance is a fashion statement for all intents and an accessory for all purposes. It’s a fashion item that, added to our everyday appearance, gives us a classic feeling of freshness. 

Scents and smells enhance beauty and reignite memories, but the right scent with various notes in a harmonic symphony can evoke emotions and elevates moods.

WHAT IS A SCENT PROFILE AND WHY IS IT IMPORTANT?

A scent profile is an olfactory categorization system for grouping fragrances according to the aroma rather than the substance or scents mixture. It allows perfumers to experiment with different combinations of scents to create a signature fragrance.

Michael Edwards has mastered the method to help guide you to the perfect scent profile vis-à-vis (vee-zuh-vee) the aroma wheel or perfume wheel to illustrate and demonstrate the association between olfactory families. The fragrance wheel works similar to the color wheel, it is a tool for determining both fragrance attraction and the connection between scent profiles and their various classifications.

All perfumes are classified into one of two groups, warm or fresh, and then fall into eight families. Warm contains fougère (french for fern), oriental, and leather, while Fresh contains citrus, floral, and aromatic.

The two remaining perfume families chypre and woody, are a cross between warm and fresh.

FRAGRANCE NOTES: A CLOSER LOOK

WARM GROUP

Oriental Notes

This perfume group of spicy notes are slowly becoming known as simply "spicy" or "resinous". These scents are best worn in cooler weather and are sweet and warm, with layers of spicy notes. The most predominant notes are cinnamon, star anise, cardamom, amber, vanilla, sandalwood, orchids, orange blossoms, jasmine, and even leather-based notes.

Fougère

A distinctly masculine scent that plays any time of year with a complex range. It comes in many aromas usually notes of bergamot, lavender, and rose or grass.

Leather

The leather family evokes the smell of leather and is made notes of tobacco, wood, and leather and wears well in the cooler months.

FRESH GROUP

Floral

Floral scents are the most common families and as you would guess, smell like different flowers. They can be sweet and complex, masculine and feminine, light and delicate.

Citrus

One of the oldest fragrances, citrus scents are fresh and stimulating. They blend well with floral and oriental notes and while they're great in summer, can be worn in any season.

Aromatic

Aromatics add a fresh touch of perfume any time of year and smell like herbs. Think rosemary, basil, mint, star anise, lavender, or sage.

BOTH GROUPS

Chypre

Chypre ("cypress" in french), is complex. It is warm and dry but has notes of flowers, fruits, and woodiness.

Wood

With earthy notes coming from wood materials like trees, resin, moss, bark, and pine cones, the name says it all.

Each particular perfume has its unique code the D.N.A profile that builds various notes into layers that make the overall scent identity, such as the top, middle, and base notes, or how the fragrance is constructed.

HOW TO USE THE FRAGRANCE WHEEL TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT SCENT FOR YOU

1. Choose Contrasting Scents – Choose your preferred scent note or sub notes then select the scent note across from it on the aroma wheel. The resulting fragrance will complement each other in synergies such as fruity woody or soft oriental citrus.

2. Select Fragrances Adjacent to Each Other- Choose two scent profiles next to each other for the perfect combination, Floral fruity, Citrus aromatic, and Green fruity all cohesively work well together.

3. Aroma Triangle – Selecting three fragrances that form a triangle will usually complement each other pleasingly and deliver a wonderful olfactory experience.

WHAT ARE PERFUME NOTES?

Perfume notes are similar to musical notes in a symphony. In sync with one another, each section forms a melody and a musical composition. These notes include three unique layers, the middle or heart notes, top or headnotes, and base notes.

All work in synergy to create a specific scent profile.

TOP NOTES

Top perfume notes determine the opening of a fragrance the smell that is introduced on the first spray, and the first impression of a scent that dissipates after about 5 minutes. Typically top notes or head notes are light and airy.

MIDDLE NOTES (HEART NOTES)

The middle note kicks in after the early notes fade and last approximately 25 minutes to an hour, making up the heart of perfume determining the more dominant aroma. Middle notes usually include herbal or floral aromas.

BASE NOTES

Base or bottom perfume notes are heavier, longer-lasting notes that are often made of larger molecules. Think vanilla, woodsy, amber, or musk scents. These notes bring balance and linger longest in the perfume.

UNDERSTANDING PERFUME CONCENTRATIONS

There are five different concentrations available in all fragrances containing scented oils and alcohol. The higher the concentration of scent oils the longer the scent sticks.

The concentration of fragrances is as follows:

• Extrait—Made up of 15%-40% aromatic compounds, the highest concentration of oils, and the most expensive but it will have the most powerful scent that can last all day with just one application to the wrists or pulse points.

• Parfum—Simply called perfume consisting of 20% aromatic compounds, it can last about 7-8 hours y just by applying the fragrance once on hot spots like the wrist or the nape of your neck.

• Eau de Parfum—Simply called eau de toilette the lowest fragrance concentration ranging from 10-15% fragrant oils, expect eau de parfum formulations to last 4-6 hours.

• Eau de Toilette—Eau de toilette uses 10% or less of scented oils and lasts around three hours.

• Eau de Cologne—Usually made with just 5% of fragrant oils, you can expect eau de cologne to last 1 to 2 hours.

CAN SCENT NOTES CHANGE OVER TIME?

Yes, fragrances do go through transformations and evolve in time. Different scent notes increase in volume and lower in tone during the evolution of a scent while others diminish over time. Some fragrances evolve less than others and are often described by fragrance experts as "linear" meaning from opening to dry down the scent profile remains much the same. Every scent has its own transformational process from the opening to the dry down. Usually woody and spicy perfume notes last the longest and floral, aromatic, and citrus expire quickest. All the facets of perfume go through evolutions intentionally inherent to the experience similar to fine wine.

HOW DOES YOUR BODY CHEMISTRY AFFECT A FRAGRANCE?

The perfect scent is different for everyone and this is where the hard truth comes to fruition. What works well for you might smell completely different on someone else and it has little to do with your olfactory sensitivity, preference, or cost of a fragrance, it is more dependent on how your own unique code of chemistry and delicate interaction with a fragrance's ingredients, that can extremely alter scent notes and affect the overall scent. As a matter of synergy and chemistry between you and the scent mixture, the reality is even the most popular, top-rated, expensive niche brands, will not be the right scent for you, and vice versa an inexpensive brand might outperform and smell absolutely amazing on you. This is what is called a "Penumbra" the space of partial illumination, the perfect shadow between full illumination. The right scent for you is simply what works best with your body chemistry, skin type, pheromones, lifestyle, and climate. To gain a deeper understanding we must break down the major components of how body chemistry can affect a perfume's fragrance to help you choose the right perfume for you.

YOUR SKIN TYPE

The skin is the largest organ of the human body and has its own unique chemistry. Your own chemical makeup and your body chemistry will enhance or diminish the way a fragrance smells. Everyone's skin is unique and depending on the type of your type of skin and pheromones can affect or extremely alter the way a skin smells and performs. If you have dry skin, fragrances will wear off more quickly than if you have normal or oily skin.

PHEROMONES & YOU

Pheromones are unique and as distinct as you are, they are part of our own unique code and are natural chemicals within our biology that affect mood and sexuality. Often referred to as the "Sex scent, it is what gives us our unique natural aroma and will combine differently for everyone.

SWEAT

The more you perspire or the less you perspire and the climate you live in impacts scent notes and the performance of a fragrance, especially near the point of application. Someone who is more active and perspires a lot will notice a scent diminish quicker or conversely improve certain notes such as green facets or citruses all can be enhanced by heat, sweat, and humidity conversely in colder climates or someone who sweats fewer spicier notes will prevail.

YOUR LIFESTYLE & DIET

Our unique body chemistry is directly impacted by our diet and medications. You are what you eat and when it comes to fragrances your diet can affect how a perfume performs and smells. Someone whose diet is more balanced consisting of meat, fruit, nuts, and vegetables smells different from someone with a more restricted diet such as a vegetarian or vegan, or paleo. The entire chemistry from within to without and our lifestyle translates to our skin and the relationship to the chemistry of perfumes.

 

EXPERIMENTATION IS KEY TO CHOOSING THE RIGHT PERFUME FOR YOU

"Each fragrance bottle and name captured a moment in time perfectly" — Roja Dove

Every fragrance should match your unique body chemistry, mood, and style. You should definitely do a few simple tests to make sure you select one you can all your signature scent.

A Guide to Finding Your Signature Scent

In an ideal world, a signature scent serves as a personal scent memory to cherished friends and loved ones. A fragrance can linger on clothes, in rooms, over the air, causing thoughts like: Santal 33! Chelsea’s here! or Oh no, Santal 33. Chelsea is here. But getting to that point is difficult, thanks to the complications of finding a signature perfume. The short answer for how to find your elusive, signature fragrance is merely: Find one that you like. It sounds simple. But as they say in life, it’s not about the destination, it’s about the journey. And the journey to finding a fragrance can feel a bit like a scent version of understanding Bran Stark’s journey past the wall. Perfume descriptions are useless for determining whether a smell suits you. “Our inspiration was a boudoir where unicorns copulate and their sweat creates a chypre musk,” reads the description of a fanciful fragrance. Meanwhile, you’re left wondering, What’s a chypre and why does this unicorn smell like a smoky fruit punch? If you don’t know what a chypre is or can’t tell the difference between Curious and Chanel No.5, you’re not alone. But here are nine simple tips on how to learn to trust your nose, follow your instincts, and commit to a signature scent. 1. Try out only three scents a time. Initially, especially if you don’t really have an idea of what you like, smell everything. But limit your explorations to sniffing only three scents per visit, suggest Erika Shumate and Christine Luby, the Stanford MBA founders of fragrance start-up Pinrose. “Your olfactory bulb is getting more of a workout than it’s used to. Give each fragrance its own proper shot.” 2. Start with lighter scents first. Luby suggests, “It’s better to start with more aqueous or musky scents first; 50 percent of the population can’t even smell musk.” Muskier scents are more clean-laundry-type scents; aqueous ones are fresher (think Acqua di Gio). Go from musky to citrus to fruity florals into heavier woods. 3. It’s good to rebound with a fragrance. Unlike rebounding with a bad boyfriend, if you keep returning to a sample and liking it, something about the fragrance is drawing you in. Request a sample of that fragrance and spray it on yourself, as body chemistry can affect how a fragrance smells. Shumate explains, “When I’m trying a fragrance, I’ll put it on the top of my hands or wrists or the crook of my elbow. They’re areas that aren’t getting constantly washed. I’ll check in every 20 minutes or hour to see if I like it.” 4. Don’t beat yourself up if you don’t like oud or other unfamiliar scents. Everyone is talking about their love for oud like their love for kale, but don’t be concerned if you don’t like it. “Fragrance preference is often rooted in familiarity. If you smell an oud and have never worn one before, it’s not that you don’t like it, it’s that your nose is learning,” Luby clarifies. Shumate adds, “Do you get a headache when you wear the scent? Is it making you feel the mood you want to feel?” These are questions you should ask yourself as you’re trying out fragrances. 5. Try to understand what you are smelling. This will help you ask for more of the same thing or vocalize what you don’t like. Shumate and Luby try to break down the scent categories in basic terms. Musk: This may sound like the underwashed armpit of a college wrestler, but musk is actually a clean-laundry scent. Smoky: It can smell like a campfire burning, fragrant cedar chips, or a blown-out match. Citrusy: Lime, lemon, oranges. It often feels a little like a spa with a nice yoga studio. Woody: These scents can range from a creamy nutty flavor (like pralines-and-cream ice cream), to sandalwood, to spicy and dank like a musky old closet (patchouli), to an old No. 2 pencil (cedarwood). Green: Includes the chalky aftertaste of a wheatgrass shot as well as a dewy moss on a spring morning. Floral: Floral encompasses everything from white florals (gardenia, lilies, ylang, etc.), to roses, to violets, to peonies. Aquatic: Where 7 Up meets bubble bath. Oriental: Incense sticks. It can be slightly powdery with a hint of spice or sweetness. 6. Skip the coffee beans. Coffee beans are generally not too far away in every perfume shop. If you ask any clerk, they claim it’s because sniffing them “resets” your scent indicators. But Shumate and Luby suggest that this is an old perfumer’s tale. “It’s another strong scent,” they explain. Instead, they smell themselves. “Bury your nose in your own elbow that doesn’t have fragrance. It really works. Something about your own scent and pH recalibrates your nose.” 7. See how a scent evolves after four hours. In scent nomenclature, people often talk about the “top note” and “dry down” of perfumes the way people talk about the legs of a wine. Luby and Shumate explain, “Fragrances are living organisms and evolve over time. A top note lasts about 20 minutes and is your first impression of the fragrance. The heart lasts for the better part of the day, about four hours.” 8. Understand why some fragrances cost $30 and some cost $300. Cheaper fragrances tend to have top notes that are initially very, very strong. Or to some, like Shumate, they smell a little “metallic-y.” More expensive fragrances have the complexity of a heart and dry down, and also tend to have longer-lasting power. 9. Try a hair perfume. No, not the kind of product billed as a hair perfume. When you do finally find a scent you like, Shumate and Luby suggest spraying it in your hair (which may not be hairdresser-approved advice since most perfumes contain alcohol, but is perfumer-approved advice). “Your hair waves around and creates this nest. Hair carries scent really well.”

parfume

 

Parfume is a French word that means "perfume." In English, it is often used to refer to scented oils, but in French it refers to any kind of perfume. Parfumeurs make perfumes and colognes on the basis of natural essences (fragrance ingredients).

 

Historically, perfumery has been as much an art form as it was a science. The first recorded perfume recipe dates back to 875 AD in China when Emperor Muzong ordered the creation of an aromatic paste known as tangyuan. It was made from citrus peels, musk and camphor. The Tang dynasty emperor also ordered that the recipe be kept secret so that only those who could afford it could enjoy its therapeutic effects.

 

Today's perfumers must have a great deal of knowledge about chemistry, botany and natural products to create new fragrances with freshness and sensuality. They also need to understand how people react differently to different smells based on culture, age and gender.