How to choose a perfume that is right for you when there are thousands of different fragrances to choose from? The right perfume is as individual as you are. What works well for other might not work well for you. The right perfume, your signature fragrance is a synergy of chemistry and emotion.
A signature fragrance is a fashion statement for all intents and an accessory for all purposes. It’s a fashion item that, added to our everyday appearance, gives us a classic feeling of freshness.
Scents and smells enhance beauty and reignite memories, but the right scent with various notes in a harmonic symphony can evoke emotions and elevates moods.
WHAT IS A SCENT PROFILE AND WHY IS IT IMPORTANT?
A scent profile is an olfactory categorization system for grouping fragrances according to the aroma rather than the substance or scents mixture. It allows perfumers to experiment with different combinations of scents to create a signature fragrance.
Michael Edwards has mastered the method to help guide you to the perfect scent profile vis-à-vis (vee-zuh-vee) the aroma wheel or perfume wheel to illustrate and demonstrate the association between olfactory families. The fragrance wheel works similar to the color wheel, it is a tool for determining both fragrance attraction and the connection between scent profiles and their various classifications.
All perfumes are classified into one of two groups, warm or fresh, and then fall into eight families. Warm contains fougère (french for fern), oriental, and leather, while Fresh contains citrus, floral, and aromatic.
The two remaining perfume families chypre and woody, are a cross between warm and fresh.
FRAGRANCE NOTES: A CLOSER LOOK
WARM GROUP
Oriental Notes
This perfume group of spicy notes are slowly becoming known as simply "spicy" or "resinous". These scents are best worn in cooler weather and are sweet and warm, with layers of spicy notes. The most predominant notes are cinnamon, star anise, cardamom, amber, vanilla, sandalwood, orchids, orange blossoms, jasmine, and even leather-based notes.
Fougère
A distinctly masculine scent that plays any time of year with a complex range. It comes in many aromas usually notes of bergamot, lavender, and rose or grass.
Leather
The leather family evokes the smell of leather and is made notes of tobacco, wood, and leather and wears well in the cooler months.
FRESH GROUP
Floral
Floral scents are the most common families and as you would guess, smell like different flowers. They can be sweet and complex, masculine and feminine, light and delicate.
Citrus
One of the oldest fragrances, citrus scents are fresh and stimulating. They blend well with floral and oriental notes and while they're great in summer, can be worn in any season.
Aromatic
Aromatics add a fresh touch of perfume any time of year and smell like herbs. Think rosemary, basil, mint, star anise, lavender, or sage.
BOTH GROUPS
Chypre
Chypre ("cypress" in french), is complex. It is warm and dry but has notes of flowers, fruits, and woodiness.
Wood
With earthy notes coming from wood materials like trees, resin, moss, bark, and pine cones, the name says it all.
Each particular perfume has its unique code the D.N.A profile that builds various notes into layers that make the overall scent identity, such as the top, middle, and base notes, or how the fragrance is constructed.
HOW TO USE THE FRAGRANCE WHEEL TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT SCENT FOR YOU
Choose Contrasting Scents – Choose your preferred scent note or sub notes then select the scent note across from it on the aroma wheel. The resulting fragrance will complement each other in synergies such as fruity woody or soft oriental citrus.
Select Fragrances Adjacent to Each Other- Choose two scent profiles next to each other for the perfect combination, Floral fruity, Citrus aromatic, and Green fruity all cohesively work well together.
Aroma Triangle – Selecting three fragrances that form a triangle will usually complement each other pleasingly and deliver a wonderful olfactory experience.
WHAT ARE PERFUME NOTES?
Perfume notes are similar to musical notes in a symphony. In sync with one another, each section forms a melody and a musical composition. These notes include three unique layers, the middle or heart notes, top or headnotes, and base notes.
All work in synergy to create a specific scent profile.
TOP NOTES
Top perfume notes determine the opening of a fragrance the smell that is introduced on the first spray, and the first impression of a scent that dissipates after about 5 minutes. Typically top notes or head notes are light and airy.
MIDDLE NOTES (HEART NOTES)
The middle note kicks in after the early notes fade and last approximately 25 minutes to an hour, making up the heart of perfume determining the more dominant aroma. Middle notes usually include herbal or floral aromas.
BASE NOTES
Base or bottom perfume notes are heavier, longer-lasting notes that are often made of larger molecules. Think vanilla, woodsy, amber, or musk scents. These notes bring balance and linger longest in the perfume.
UNDERSTANDING PERFUME CONCENTRATIONS
There are five different concentrations available in all fragrances containing scented oils and alcohol. The higher the concentration of scent oils the longer the scent sticks.
The concentration of fragrances is as follows:
Extrait—Made up of 15%-40% aromatic compounds, the highest concentration of oils, and the most expensive but it will have the most powerful scent that can last all day with just one application to the wrists or pulse points.
Parfum—Simply called perfume consisting of 20% aromatic compounds, it can last about 7-8 hours y just by applying the fragrance once on hot spots like the wrist or the nape of your neck.
Eau de Parfum—Simply called eau de toilette the lowest fragrance concentration ranging from 10-15% fragrant oils, expect eau de parfum formulations to last 4-6 hours.
Eau de Toilette—Eau de toilette uses 10% or less of scented oils and lasts around three hours.
Eau de Cologne—Usually made with just 5% of fragrant oils, you can expect eau de cologne to last 1 to 2 hours.
CAN SCENT NOTES CHANGE OVER TIME?
Yes, fragrances do go through transformations and evolve in time. Different scent notes increase in volume and lower in tone during the evolution of a scent while others diminish over time. Some fragrances evolve less than others and are often described by fragrance experts as "linear" meaning from opening to dry down the scent profile remains much the same. Every scent has its own transformational process from the opening to the dry down. Usually woody and spicy perfume notes last the longest and floral, aromatic, and citrus expire quickest. All the facets of perfume go through evolutions intentionally inherent to the experience similar to fine wine.
HOW DOES YOUR BODY CHEMISTRY AFFECT A FRAGRANCE?
The perfect scent is different for everyone and this is where the hard truth comes to fruition. What works well for you might smell completely different on someone else and it has little to do with your olfactory sensitivity, preference, or cost of a fragrance, it is more dependent on how your own unique code of chemistry and delicate interaction with a fragrance's ingredients, that can extremely alter scent notes and affect the overall scent. As a matter of synergy and chemistry between you and the scent mixture, the reality is even the most popular, top-rated, expensive niche brands, will not be the right scent for you, and vice versa an inexpensive brand might outperform and smell absolutely amazing on you. This is what is called a "Penumbra" the space of partial illumination, the perfect shadow between full illumination. The right scent for you is simply what works best with your body chemistry, skin type, pheromones, lifestyle, and climate. To gain a deeper understanding we must break down the major components of how body chemistry can affect a perfume's fragrance to help you choose the right perfume for you.
YOUR SKIN TYPE
The skin is the largest organ of the human body and has its own unique chemistry. Your own chemical makeup and your body chemistry will enhance or diminish the way a fragrance smells. Everyone's skin is unique and depending on the type of your type of skin and pheromones can affect or extremely alter the way a skin smells and performs. If you have dry skin, fragrances will wear off more quickly than if you have normal or oily skin.
PHEROMONES & YOU
Pheromones are unique and as distinct as you are, they are part of our own unique code and are natural chemicals within our biology that affect mood and sexuality. Often referred to as the "Sex scent, it is what gives us our unique natural aroma and will combine differently for everyone.
SWEAT
The more you perspire or the less you perspire and the climate you live in impacts scent notes and the performance of a fragrance, especially near the point of application. Someone who is more active and perspires a lot will notice a scent diminish quicker or conversely improve certain notes such as green facets or citruses all can be enhanced by heat, sweat, and humidity conversely in colder climates or someone who sweats fewer spicier notes will prevail.
YOUR LIFESTYLE & DIET
Our unique body chemistry is directly impacted by our diet and medications. You are what you eat and when it comes to fragrances your diet can affect how a perfume performs and smells. Someone whose diet is more balanced consisting of meat, fruit, nuts, and vegetables smells different from someone with a more restricted diet such as a vegetarian or vegan, or paleo. The entire chemistry from within to without and our lifestyle translates to our skin and the relationship to the chemistry of perfumes.
EXPERIMENTATION IS KEY TO CHOOSING THE RIGHT PERFUME FOR YOU
"Each fragrance bottle and name captured a moment in time perfectly" — Roja Dove
Every fragrance should match your unique body chemistry, mood, and style. You should definitely do a few simple tests to make sure you select one you can all your signature scent.
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